Showing posts with label and. Show all posts
Showing posts with label and. Show all posts

Simple Emergency Lamp and Turning Indicator Circuit Diagram

Friday, September 26, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
This is a Simple Emergency Lamp and Turning Indicator Circuit Diagram.White LEDs are replacing the conventional incandescent and fluorescent bulbs due to their high power efficiency and low operating voltage. These can be utilised optimally for emergency lamp and vehicle turning indication. The circuits for the purpose are given here.

Emergency Lamp and Turning Indicator Circuit Diagram
Emergency Lamp and Turning Indicator Circuit Diagram fig 1

Fig. 1 shows the circuit of a white-LED based emergency lamp. You can also use arrays of white LEDs as daytime running lamps in automobiles. In the emergency lamp, seven 1.2V AA-size Ni-Cd cells giving 8.4V have been used as the power source. The brightness is controlled by duty-cycle variation of an astable multivibrator working at 1 kHz. The astable multivibrator is built around IC1. Its output is connected to LED-driver transistor T1. Up to six branches of white LEDs can be connected in parallel, with each branch containing two LEDs in series (only three branches are used here). Depending on the application, different combinations of battery voltages and the number of LEDs in series can be made such as to keep the resistive losses low.

Emergency Lamp and Turning Indicator Circuit Diagram fig 2

The charger circuit for a Ni-Cd battery is shown in Fig. 2. When the battery voltage is less than 9.8V, charging takes place since the voltage at the emitter of transistor T2 (VE) is 9.8V. The value of resistor R8 is chosen such that the battery charges at a rate of 70 mA per hour. The full charge voltage of the battery is 9.8V. When the battery reaches full voltage, the current reduces to approach the tickle charge value of few milliamperes.

Assemble both the circuits shown in Figs 1 and 2 on a general-purpose PCB. LEDs can also be mounted on the reflector of a lamp. After assembling, connect points A and GND of the emergency lamp circuit to the respective points of the battery charger circuit. Now your emergency lamp is ready to work.

To use the emergency lamp, switch on the circuit using switch S1. All the LEDs (LED1 through LED6) will glow to provide sufficient light.

Emergency Lamp and Turning Indicator Circuit Diagram fig 3


Turning indicator shown in Fig. 3 is another application of the LEDs. It can be used for two-wheelers and draws limited power from the dynamo/battery. At low revolutions, headlight dims because of the increase in load. The white LED-based turning indicator circuit draws a fraction of the power drawn by conventional bulbs, and may last longer than the vehicle itself.The circuit comprises two identical sections for left and right turn indications. 

The right turn indicator circuit is built around transistors T3 through T5 and white/yellow LEDs (LED8 through LED13). Similarly, the left turn indicator circuit is built around transistors T4, T6 and T7 and white/yellow LEDs (LED15 through LED20). Transistor T4 and the piezobuzzer are common for both-side indicators.

When you slide switch S2 towards right, blinking LED7, right-front LEDs (LED8 through LED10) and rear LEDs (LED11 through LED13) start blinking. Similarly, when you slide switch S2 towards left, blinking LED14, left-front LEDs (LED15 through LED17) and rear LEDs (LED18 through LED20) start blinking.Transistor T3 acts as the buffer, while transistor T4 drives the buzzer. Transistors T5 and T7 drive the LEDs.The LED array can be built using white LEDs or yellow LEDs depending on the colour of the indicator’s cover. 

In case you use yellow LEDs, keep in mind that the forward drop voltage is around 1.8V for a single yellow LED and therefore the value of the resistance should be changed in accordance with the increase in the number of LEDs in series.Three white LEDs produce the light intensity of six yellow LEDs.



Copyrighted: EFY : Authors: Anantha Keshava and Shireen M. Baretto
Continue reading...

Scalable 12V Solar Power System and Battery Charge Controller

| Labels: , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
An unconventional, scalable high efficiency 12V solar power system and battery charge controller with low voltage cutout to protect the battery. (ideal for systems of 50W or less). The most common solar charger consists of a Schottky diode to prevent the battery from draining into the PV panel and a shunt regulator that effectively short circuits the panel once the battery is fully charged.

Scalable 12V Solar Power System and Battery Charge Controller

One problem with this approach is diode losses and the resulting heat. If a 50W 12V panel supplies 4A to the battery, the Schottky diode will drop about 0,4V across it dissipating about 1,6W of heat. This requires a heat sink and loses power to heat. The problem is that there is no way of reducing the volt drop, paralleling diodes may share current, but the 0,4V will still be there. The circuit uses a MOSFET in stead of the usual diode and the primary power loss is resistive. [Link]
Continue reading...

Build a Power Pulse Using by LM350 and NE555 Circuit Diagram

Friday, September 19, 2014 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
This is a Simple Power Pulse Using by LM350 and NE555 Circuit Diagram. This circuit can use to drive lamp,power LED,DC motor etc. Adjust R5 for output amplitude.Adjust R1 for output power .

Power Pulse Circuit Diagram

Power Pulse Circuit Diagram


The LM350 is adjustable 3-terminal positive voltage regulators is capable of supplying in excess of 3A over a 1.2V to 33V output range.This circuit requires 5-15V power supply.
Continue reading...

Simple 110 and 220V AC LED Voltage Indicator

Wednesday, May 29, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
This circuit, designed on request, has proven to be useful to indicate when the voltage in a power supply line is changing from 120V to 240Vac. It can be used in different circumstances and circuits, mainly when an increase in ac or dc supply voltage needs to be detected. D3 illuminates when the line voltage is approaching 120V and will remain in the on state also at 240V supply. On the other hand, D6 will illuminate only when the line voltage is about 240V and will stay on because the latching action of Q1, Q2 and related components. C1, D1 and D2 provide a low dc voltage in the 4.5V - 6V range in order to allow proper operation of latch circuit and LEDs.

Circuit diagram

 

Parts:

  • R1_____________470R 1/2W Resistor
  • R2_____________220K 1/4W Resistor
  • R3,R7__________470R 1/4W Resistors
  • R4_______________1K 1/4W Resistor
  • R5_______________2K2 1/4W Resistor
  • R6_____________330R 1/4W Resistor
  • C1_____________330nF 630V Polyester Capacitor
  • C2______________10µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
  • D1,D2________1N4007 1000V 1A Diode
  • D3,D6___________LEDs (Color and shape at will)
  • D4_________BZX79C10 10V 500mW Zener Diode (See Notes)
  • D5___________1N4148 75V 150mA Diode
  • Q1____________BC547 45V 100mA NPN Transistor
  • Q2____________BC557 45V 100mA PNP Transistor

Notes:

  • D4 value could require some adjustment in order to allow precise switching of the circuit at the chosen voltage. If the case, please try values in the 8.2V - 15V range.
  • Warning! The circuit is connected to 240Vac mains, then some parts in the circuit board are subjected to lethal potential! Avoid touching the circuit when plugged and enclose it in a plastic box.
Continue reading...

How to Make an Ideal Automatic Water Level Controller and Indicator Circuit

Monday, May 27, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , , , , , , | 0 comments |
 This system monitors the water level of the tank and automatically switches ON the motor when ever tank is empty. The motor is switched OFF when the overhead tank or container is FULL. Here the water level of the tank is indicated on LCD (Liquid crystal Display). Using this system, we can avoid the overflow of the water. We have already seen How water level indicator circuit works using AVR Microcontroller in the earlier post. But, here we are designing the circuit which is used to detect and control the water level automatically in overhead tank using 8051 microcontroller.

In this system water sensing can be done by using a set of 4 wires which are placed at different levels in tank. DC supply probe is placed at the base of the tank.
Water Level Controller using 8051 Circuit Principle:

This system mainly works on a principle that “water conducts electricity”. The four wires which are dipped into the tank will indicate the different water levels. Based on the outputs of these wires, microcontroller displays water level on LCD as well as controls the motor.
Water Level Controller using 8051 Circuit Diagram: 


Circuit Components:

    At89c51 controller
    At89c51 programming board.
    16*2 LCD
    5V Relay
    Bc547 (NPN) transistors – 5
    Resistors (1K) – 4
    Resistor – 330 ohm
    AC Motor
    Pot – 10k
    Programming cable
    Connecting wires

Water Level Controller using 8051 Circuit Design:

The main heart of this project is AT89C51 microcontroller. The water level probes are connected to the P3.0, P3.1, P3.2, and P3.3 through the transistors. Port P2 connected to the data pins of LCD and control pins RS, RW and EN of LCD are connected to the P1.0, P1.1, and P1.2 respectively.

Initially when tank is empty, LCD will display the message EMPTY and motor runs automatically. When water level reaches to quarter level, now LCD displays QUARTER and still motor runs. For further levels, LCD displays the messages HALF and ¾ FULL.

When tank is full, LCD displays FULL and motor automatically stops. Again motor runs when tank is empty.

great idea from http://www.electronicshub.org/water-level-controller-using-8051-microcontroller/
Continue reading...

Capacitor and Resistor in One Switch Box

Wednesday, May 1, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , | 0 comments |
It would be nice and comfortable doing our work and what we needed are readily available to save time and effort. It lessens the hassle of looking for missing pieces or even using multiple devices to check the accuracy and effectiveness of the equipments we are using.

pacitor and Resistor in One Switch Box
Just like this switch box that has a capacitor and resistor in one unit. It will be easier and faster to check the capacitance and resistance by switching the knobs. This device may look old-fashioned but can really come very handy. This is simple and not that expensive to make and very useful in electronic projects or for the purpose of collecting devices for future use.

pacitor and Resistor in One Switch Box



Source : extreamcirciuts
Continue reading...

Small Audio Amplifiers Using LM386 and NE5534

Tuesday, April 30, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , | 0 comments |
Many electronic projects require the use of a small audio amplifier. Be it a radio transceiver, a digital voice recorder, or an intercom, they all call for an audio amp that is small, cheap, and has enough power to provide adequate loudness to fill a room, without pretending to serve a disco! About one Watt RMS seems to be a convenient size, and this is also about the highest power that a simple amplifier fed from 12V can put into an 8 Ohm speaker. A very low saturation amplifier may go as high up as 2 Watt, but any higher power requires the use of a higher voltage power supply, lower speaker impedance, a bridge circuit, or a combination of those.

During my many years building electronic things I have needed small audio amps many times, and have pretty much standardized on a few IC solutions, first and and foremost the LM386, which is small, cheap, and very easy to use. But it does not produce high quality audio... For many applications, the advantages weigh more than the distortion and noise of this chip, so that I used it anyway. In other cases I used different chips, which perform better but need more complex circuits. Often these chips were no longer available the next time I needed a small amplifier.

When I last upgraded my computer, I replaced the old and trusty Soundblaster AWE 32 by a Soundblaster Audigy. The new card is better in many regards, but while the old one had an internal audio power amplifier, the new one doesnt! Thats bad news, because I have some pretty decent speakers for the PC, which are fully passive. So, I built a little stereo amp using two LM386 chips and installed it inside the computer, fed by the 12V available internally.

But then I wasnt satisfied. The LM386 might be suitable for "communication quality" audio, which is roughly the fidelity you get over a telephone, but for music its pretty poor! The distortion was awful. So, the day came when I decided to play a little more scientifically with small audio amps, looking for a way to get good performance with simple and inexpensive means.

I set up a test bench with a sine wave oscillator running at 1 kHz, an 8 Ohm speaker, 12V power supply, and the computer with the soundcard and Fast Fourier Transform software. One channel was connected to the oscillator together with the amplifier input, the other channel to the output and speaker. With this setup I measured the harmonic content of the audio signals. I did the tests at an output level of 0.1W, which is typical for moderately loud sound from a reasonably efficient speaker. Also, I used a music signal from a CD player to test the actual sound of each amplifier.

Circuit Project: Small Audio Amplifiers Using LM386 and NE5534

As already said above, the main attraction of the LM386 is the extreme simplicity of its application circuit. You can even eliminate R1 if the signal source is DC-grounded. If the speaker leads are long, you should add an RC snubber across the output to aid stability. Additionally, if you need higher gain (not necessary if the input is at line level), you can connect a 10uF capacitor between pins 1 and 8. Thats about all there is to it.

Now the bad news: This circuit produced a very high level of distortion! The second harmonic measured just -28dB from the main output. The third harmonic was at -35dB, while the noise level was at -82dB. There were assorted high harmonics at roughly -45dB. With music, the distortion was really disturbing, and also the noise level was uncomfortably high. The power supply rejection is poor, so that some hum and other supply noise gets through. In short, this was a lousy performance!

Since I had used so many LM386s in my projects, I had several different variations. In my material box I found a slightly newer LM386N-1. So I plugged it into my test amplifier. It was even worse! The second harmonic was at -24dB, the third harmonic at -31dB, while the noise was a tad better at -84dB. Folks, thats a total harmonic distortion of almost 7%! And the 0.1W output level at which this was measured is where such a circuit is about at its best...  The distortion can be plainly seen on the oscilloscope, and a visibly distorted waveform is about the most offending thing an audio designer can ever see!

Looking through my projects, I found one where I had used a GL386 chip. This is just a 386 made by another company. I unsoldered it and put it in my test amplifier. Surprise! It was dramatically better, with the second harmonic at -45dB, and the third at -57dB! The noise floor was -84dB, just like the LM386N-1. But even this level of distortion was plainly audible when listening to music. Thats roughly 0.6% THD. Some folks may consider it acceptable for music. I dont, but for communication equipment its fine. At this point, I decided to see if I could build a better amplifier, that doesnt become too complex nor expensive.

Circuit Project: Small Audio Amplifiers Using LM386 and NE5534

This was the first attempt. A low distortion, fast slew rate, but easy to find and rather inexpensive operational amplifier, driving a simple source follower made of two small transistors. These transistors are not biased, so they work at zero quiescent current, in full class B. The only mechanism that works against crossover distortion here is the high slew rate of the OpAmp, which is able to make the distortion bursts during crossover very short. To say the truth, I didnt expect to get usable performance from this circuit, and was really surprised when it worked much better than the 386! The second harmonic was at -77dB, the third at -79dB!

Also there were many high harmonics at roughly -84dB. That means a THD of about 0.015%.  The noise floor was down at the -120dB level! The power supply rejection was excellent, with no detectable feedtrough. Playing music, this amplifier sounded really good: No audible noise, and the distortion could be heard when paying attention to it, but I doubt that the average person would detect it! Not bad, for a bias-less design!

Just to see how important the slew rate of the OpAmp is, I pulled out the NE5534 and replaced it by a humble 741, which is many times slower. The result was dramatic: The second harmonic still good at -70dB, but the third harmonic was much worse, at -48dB. Also there were many high harmonics at the same -48dB level. Given that second harmonic distortion doesnt sound bad to most people, but third harmonic does, and high harmonics are even worse, it came as no surprise that the amplifier with the 741 sounded bad.

At low volume it sounded particularly bad! So I returned to the oscillator and measurement setup, testing at lower output power, and found that while the second and third harmonics followed the output, the high harmonics stayed mostly constant! So, at very low output, the high harmonics became very strong relative to the output. All this is the effect of the slower slew rate of the 741, which makes it less effective correcting the crossover distortion of the unbiased transistors. Interestingly, the noise floor of the 741 circuit wasnt bad: -118dB.

Just for fun, I tried this circuit with a third OpAmp: The TL071, which is good, but not as good as the 5534. The results: Second harmonic at -72dB, third and the high ones at -60dB, and the noise at -120dB. Its interesting that the second harmonic is much more suppressed than the third one. That must be a balancing effect of the symmetric output stage, and the better symmetry in the TL071 compared to other OpAmps.

Its worthwhile to note that this amplifier can be simplified a lot by using a split power supply. R1, R2, C1, C2 and C4 would be eliminated! But then you need the capacitor removed from C4 to bypass the negative supply line. The positive input of the chip goes to ground, while pin 4 and the collector of Q2 go to the negative supply. The rest stays the same. If you use a +-15V supply, the available RMS output power grows to over 10 Watt! Of course, you then need larger transistors. And since larger transistors are slower, the distortion will rise somewhat. An added benefit of a split supply is that the popping noise when switching on and off is eliminated.

Circuit Project: Small Audio Amplifiers Using LM386 and NE5534

As the next experiment, I decided to get rid of the crossover distortion. For this purpose, I added a traditional adjustable bias circuit with a transistor and a trimpot. Now I also had to add a current source, because with the bias circuit there is no single point into which the OpAmp could put its drive current into both bases! I adjusted the bias for the best distortion, and this was really  a good one! The second harmonic was down right where the test oscillator delivered it, about -80dB, so I couldnt really measure it!

The third harmonic was at -84dB, and the best improvement was that the higher harmonics had simply disappeared! They were all below the noise floor, which stayed at -120dB. Actually, this noise floor seems to come from the soundcard A/D converter, so that the actual noise of this and the above amplifier may even be better! With music, this amplifier sounded perfect - clean and smooth. And Im pretty confident that the THD is well below the limits of my measurement setup, which is 0.01%.

The quiescent current was around 10mA. When lowering it to about 3mA, the high harmonics started to rise out of the noise floor. If you want to adjust the bias for the exact best quiescent current, there is a simple trick: Lift R4 from the output, and connect it to pin 6. Now the output stage has been left outside the feedback loop, and all its distortion will show up at the output. Watching the signal on an oscilloscope, or even better on a real time spectrum analyzer (soundcard and software), adjust the trimpot to the lowest distortion level.

Have a current meter in the supply line and make sure that you dont exceed 30mA or so of quiescent current, in order to keep the small transistors cool. But most likely the best distortion will be at a current lower than that. Once the adjustment is complete, return R4 to its normal position. Now the full gain and slew rate of the operational amplifier is used to correct the small remaining cross-over distortion of the output stage, and the distortion will certainly disappear from the scope screen, from your ears, and possibly fall below the detection level of the spectrum analyzer!

This circuit can also be run from a split power supply, by exactly the same mods as for the previous circuit. And since the transistors are properly biased, there isnt any significant distortion increase when using larger transistors. Be sure to use some that have enough gain - you have only a few mA of driving available, and with a +-15V power supply and an 8 Ohm speaker, there can be almost 2A of output current! So, you need a gain of 300 at least. There are power transistors in the 4A class that provide such gain, and these are good candidates. The other option is using Darlington transistors, which far exceed the gain needed here. But they will again increase the distortion, not very much, but perhaps enough to make it audible again.
 
 
Source: Humo Luden
Continue reading...

110 and 220V AC LED Voltage Indicator

Saturday, April 13, 2013 | Labels: , , , , , , | 0 comments |
Useful for power traces control, Simple, transformerless circuitry
This circuit, designed on request, has confirmed to be useful to indicate when the voltage in an influence supply line is changing from 120V to 240Vac. It can be utilized in numerous situations and circuits, mainly when an increase in ac or dc supply voltage must be detected. D3 illuminates when the road voltage is drawing near 120V and will stay in the on state also at 240V provide. On the opposite hand, D6 will illuminate best when the road voltage is about 240V and can stay on for the explanation that latching motion of Q1, Q2 and related elements. C1, D1 and D2 present a low dc voltage within the four.5V - 6V vary in order to permit right kind operation of latch circuit and LEDs.

Circuit diagram:

110 and 220V AC LED Voltage Indicator Circuit Diagram
Parts:
R1__________470R 1/2W Resistor
R2__________220K 1/4W Resistor
R3,R7_______470R 1/4W Resistors
R4__________1K 1/4W Resistor
R5__________2K2 1/4W Resistor
R6_________330R 1/4W Resistor
C1_________330nF 630V Polyester Capacitor
C2_________10µF 25V Electrolytic Capacitor
D1,D2______N4007 1000V 1A Diode
D3,D6______LEDs (Color and shape at will)
D4_________BZX79C10 10V 500mW Zener Diode (See Notes)
D5_________1N4148 75V 150mA Diode
Q1_________BC547 four5V 100mA NPN Transistor
Q2_________BC557 four5V 100mA PNP Transistor

Notes:
  • D4 price could require some adjustment to be ready to permit precise switching of the circuit at the chosen voltage. If the case, please try values in the eight.2V - 15V range.
  • Warning! The circuit is connected to 240Vac primarys, then some phases within the circuit board are subjected to lethal potential! Avoid touching the circuit when plugged and enclose it in a plastic field.


http://www.ecircuitslab.com/2011/07/110-and-220v-ac-led-voltage-indicator.html
Continue reading...